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Monday, September 21, 2020

Tang Dynasty Fashion

Even though the folk ballad that recounted the story of Hua Mulan first appeared in the 4th to 6th centuries (i.e., during the Northern and Southern Dynasties) people commonly think of Hua Mulan as a Tang Dynasty personage (i.e., 7th century). So, when Hanfu Girl HERE, did an analysis of the period costumes in Disney's Mulan 2020, she referenced the Tang Dynasty.

The period of the Northern and Southern Dynasties was one where many battles were fought between the Northern and the Southern states. It made sense to have a Mulan appear during the Northern and Southern Dynasties period than during the relatively more peaceful Tang Dynasty.

Be that as it may be, Hanfu Girl's analysis of the period costumes in Hua Mulan was fascinating. The Tang Dynasty was a golden age for China. Till today, the mere mention of the Tang Dynasty evokes elegance, luxe, good manners and fine food. Elements of Tang Dynasty fashion exist today in the Japanese kimono, and the Korean hanbok.

Then, I learnt something surprising. Tang Dynasty women showed off their cleavages!! 


When I first watched Zhang Yimou's "Curse of the Golden Flower", I scoffed at the ample cleavages. I thought it was some modern take on Chinese period clothes, done for the purpose of salacious interest. So, I was very surprised to learn that if Hua Mulan were really a Tang Dynasty girl, she would be wearing clothes that would have exposed her cleavage.

I was a little incredulous. So, I researched a bit. I found this.


Wah! See how the necklines dropped from early Tang Dynasty to late Tang Dynasty? Unbelievable! When Rihanna wore a Guo Pei dress to the Met Gala, I thought that she had a rather inappropriate figure (and style) for Chinese fashion. The Chinese silhouette tends to be slimmer and less voluptuous.

It turns out that Rihanna type cleavage and Chinese high fashion go back a long way!

The new Mulan 2020 by Disney has not been well received. The Daughter refuses to watch it because the beloved songs did not appear, and there was no Mushu. The Chinese in China won't watch it because there was no attention to detail. Younger sisters don't call older sisters by name. Bit part actors in the background were not appropriately dressed. The movie was sloppily made, in its details.

I liked the movie because I liked the theme of:

- older women cutting a path for younger women,

- women come into their true power as women, not pretend men,

- women safeguarding the sancity of home and family once the battle is over.

It is a pity that the set and costumes were sloppily rendered.








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