Museo Laboratorio Moretti Caselli, Perugia

Francesco Moretti's Study Room

Perugia is the capital of the Umbria region, just like Florence is the capital of the Tuscany region. Umbria is a region further south from Tuscany and amongst Italians, it is known for its beauty and truffles. Perugia is well worth a visit for those who come to Italy. The town is big enough to be interesting but not big enough to be touristy. There are also interesting things to see.

Nearby to Perugia is the town of Assisi. This is the famous town where St. Francis of Assisi has his church and monastery. St. Francis is the patron saint of the whole Italy. He started life as the son of a prosperous silk merchant and a French noble woman. As a young man, he lead a dissolute lifestyle of parties and games. He was also a soldier who pledged his services to various Lords eager to wage war on each other. It was only later in life that he experienced God's calling on his life. He founded 3 monastic orders and left an indelible mark on Umbria, on the Vatican, on Italy and on people of the Catholic faith the world over.

In Perugia, 2 workshops are must sees: textile weaving workshop (Museo Giuditta Brozzetti) and the stained glass workshop (Museo Laboratorio Moretti Caselli). The stained glass workshop is housed in the only surviving townhouse of the Baglioni family. Florence was ruled by the Medicis. Milan belonged to the Sforzas. Perugia was the domain of the Baglioni family. However, precious little of the Baglioni properties are left in a town where ruins from Roman times still stand. The Pope attacked Perugia and routed the Baglionis. He razed all their homes and built his own papal castle in its place.

Now, only one house survives. It belongs to Maddalena Caselli, who is the great great grand niece of Francesco Moretti, the founder of the stained glass workshop. The tour was engaging. The man who conducted the tour spoke with drama and poise. He knew when to pause for effect and stand aside like a circus maestro opening room after room of the Baglioni house to showcase stunning stained glass and life sized sketches of people used as models for people in the stained glass windows.

Yes... they apparently use real people in those church stained glass windows!

There is also an interesting story about the Baglioni family. On 15 July 1500, Grifonetto Baglioni decided to make a power grab for his family's wealth. He massacred as many members of the family as he could, tore out the heart of the bridegroom, took a bite and threw the body out on the street, all whilst laughing maniacally.

Ok... I added that bit about laughing maniacally.

Anyway, some prominent members of the family escaped and sought justice. Grifonetto Baglioni was hanged on a hilltop to show the world how the Baglionis dealt with traitors. Apparently, in Renaissance Italy, if you don't like someone's face, it was ok to kill them.

The oven where they make the binding powder for stained glass paints.

The colours used in the stained glass paints.